After completing the construction phase of a project, the finishing phase begins. Actually, a finish is a film that lies on top of the wood surface, but like so many others I like to refer to the finish as the whole process of applying the finish. So, that means the first part of the finishing step is preparing the wood by proper sanding and/or scraping. Again, this ties back in to the second stage (construction) because it may be easier to sand or scrap the parts instead of the completed piece. Most of the decisions for finishing should have already been made. Pre-finishing or post finishing, dying to highlight figured grain, staining or coloring to match an existing finish, pre-raising the grain (if waterbased finishes are used) and glazing are examples of a few of your decisions already made. Other issues addressed are VOC’s and method of application – wipe on, brush on or spray. But perhaps the most important question to answer is the purpose and setting of the completed piece. These answers, which are thought about during the planning stage, should dictate the type of finish used. As you can see there is no miracle finish that is perfect for all applications. Finishing can be as personal as the design of a piece and trying new methods is always a challenging and learning experience. So, before you start your next project try to think through the whole process – design, construction and finishing – prior to cutting the first board. I am confident you will build it easier, quicker and with better craftsmanship each time.
Enjoy your shop time,
Jerill

After all the preparation and planning is done then the fun begins with the construction stage. Prior to cutting any boards, carefully examine them and select only the ones that will blend together. Note the grain, as well as, any abnormalities or “character” in the boards. Proper selection of materials will accentuate your project and highlight your craftsmanship. Decisions on details, such as, contrasting wedges in a wedged mortise and tenon joint have been made in the prior stage but need to be scrutinized in this stage. Proper cutting and dimensioning of the boards will make the joinery process more precise and easier. Prior to this stage the decisions on finishing have been made which now dictate how to proceed. Pre-finishing or post-finishing decisions are important now. Sanding parts prior to assembly are sometimes easier than sanding the whole project. The same holds true for applying the finish. Care must also be taken with the clamps and glue during assembly. A sloppy glue job will be an eye catcher and take away from the overall appearance of the finish. As you can see, all three stages are directly related to one another and thought must be given to each stage and how to progress toward the end project.
Enjoy your shop time,
Jerill

The first aspect of any woodworking project is planning. This requires some research to determine that you build exactly what you or your client desires. If the item is to be placed in a particular place then the size is dictated by those dimensions. If it is to blend in, then the style or period is set with the surrounding environment. This can also hold true for the finish. As you can see, much background information is needed prior to beginning the design. A written plan, a model, or a prototype is necessary to work out any unforeseen issues. A plan can be a simple sketch, a perspective drawing, a computer drawing or a computer 3D program printout. One of the most important items to consider at this stage (in my opinion) is proportions. It is very important to get everything proportional within the project to ensure it is not “offensive to the eye” (as my instructor used to say). From this, a materials list will render all the needed supplies prior to starting. This list needs to include wood and hardware as well as finishing supplies. The desired finish should be determined now prior to cutting the first board! Critical time spent here should save time in the next two steps. As you develop a method of planning your project each one gets easier to plan.
Enjoy your shop time,
Jerill

Many years ago when I did woodworking as a hobby I didn’t think much about the methods- only the desired results. While studying woodworking in college, my instructor stressed making a sketch, a prototype or a model of the project before using a piece of quality hardwood.
As I progressed in the program, I began to develop my own methods to minimize mistakes or errors with high dollar hardwood. This method has also helped me in estimating the time needed for completion of a project for clients. It is a very simple system and I encourage each of you to utilize it or develop your own.
There are three stages; planning, construction and finishing. Although each section seems simple they overlap and are tied together. To ensure a successful project each stage is dependent on the other two and all three must be thought out prior to starting the project. I will go over each stage in separate blogs so be sure and look for details in the coming weeks.
Enjoy your shop time,
Jerill

In woodworking, most tools need to be sharp to do quality work. We spend a great deal of pride and time in getting them sharp and maintaining the edge. Many woodworkers have asked me when is a cutting edge sharp. There are several methods to determine if an edge is sharp but I always say if you can do quality work with minimal effort then the tool is sharp enough for that task. And until recently I did not think anything in the shop could be too sharp. This summer I actually cut my skin (similar to a paper cut) on the edge of a board after I dimensioned that board. The edge is always knocked off during the sanding stages so the danger is not there for very long. Of course, all the edges need to be sanded slightly round prior to applying a film finish because the finish will not adhere to a sharp edge.  So, for the first time I have to admit that an edge can be too sharp! Are the edges in your shop sharp enough or too sharp?
Enjoy your shop time,
Jerill

Wood is hygroscopic – it gives off water and takes on water as the environment changes. So, wood is continually shrinking and expanding as it acclimates to the environment. Freshly cut or “dead green” wood can have over 100% moisture content so it will shrink a lot as it dries. Woodworkers know that the recommended moisture content of wood for furniture or indoor use is 6% to 8% (for the area I live). This is based on the equilibrium moisture content of the inside of homes in a designated region. Everyone I know who works with wood uses kiln dried or air-dried wood. Many prefer air-dried and some like kiln dried wood. Which do you prefer? I live on a farm, so I have the pleasure of storing wood (properly ricked) in my barn loft for a period of time prior to placing it in the kiln. I have an EBAC LD-800 dehumidification kiln so I can dry about 800 to 1000 bd ft of wood to the recommended moisture content. Obtaining logs from various places and having them milled to my specifications results in a nice supply of quality boards. With patience and time I can have properly dried wood for my woodworking habit. How do you obtain dried wood or how do you dry your wood? If you need your wood dried contact me and maybe I can help you.
Enjoy your shop time,
Jerill

To minimize wood movement, the moisture content needs to be a known factor. Most woodworkers use a moisture meter to measure the amount of water left in the wood after the drying process but this is not always accurate, no matter what the type (pin or pinless) or brand. There are too many variables for moisture meters to repeat the true amount of water in a board. How the log is cut (plain, rift or quarter sawn), as well as, the grain abnormalities are not consistent. Then the cell structure of the boards and errant use of the meter plays a role in the inaccurate measurements. The only accurate method (and scientific method) to measure the MC of wood is called “oven dried” (OD) or “total solids”. This method involves placing samples of the board in an oven (about 250 to 350 degrees F) for up to 24 hours until all moisture is removed. The samples of wood are weighed on a small-scale until the weight stabilizes indicating all the moisture is gone. The scale I use measures in grams. I can then calculate the amount of moisture in the samples boards as well as the boards in my kiln. I use the oven in my kitchen so it is on for an extended time. Because I am frugal, I prefer to bake a cake while drying the wood samples. So recently I had an OD cherry wood cake! How do you measure the moisture content of the wood you use? If you need help determining the moisture content let me know – maybe I can help.
Enjoy your shop time,
Jerill

I recently built a Moxon vise to make it easier for me to cut dovetails at the “work station” instead of my work bench. I have better light at the work station, therefore, it is much easier to see to mark and cut the dovetails. However, I did modify the Moxon vise to suit my needs. That is the good thing about woodworking – most craftsmen make changes to satisfy their own situation. When I was studying woodworking in college, my instructor, John Wesley Williams, insisted that I design my own items prior to building them. I was not allowed to use existing plans. Most of the time I was required to make a prototype or model. That has helped me tremendously in my business. I get requests all the time to make a piece of furniture to suit the client’s needs, so I design and build a piece for an existing space, a custom size or custom style for the customer. To modify an existing shop made tool, no matter how old the design, seems natural to me. If you have a need for a special, shop made tool don’t hesitate to modify it to fit your personal needs. After all, you are the one that will be using it! I would like to hear about any shop made tools or jigs that you have customized for your use.

Woodworkers not only need tools but also value them for the use they serve. Most craftsman drool over new tools that make specific tasks easier to perform. Some look through flea markets and yard sales for a good deal on a used tool. I like new, quality tools and also enjoy looking for used tools to serve my needs. Over the course of time I have been given and “handed down” tools from some special individuals. These are my “treasured tools” that have a special meaning to only me. My paternal and maternal grandfathers, my father, my brother, other relatives and even some of my high school friends have blessed me with some of their personal tools. Some of these are hand-made or crudely repaired to continue their life. Many of these tools are not top quality or even in useable shape but they have a significant meaning to me personally. Most of these prized tools enjoy a specific perch on a shelf overlooking my shop full of tools. From time to time I find myself glancing up and seeing these tools and thinking back to when the previous owner reaped the benefit of using the tool. A custom marking gauge made for me by a close friend, a hand plane from my grandfather, a broken folding rule from my other grandfather, a hand saw from my dad or a hammer from a fraternity brother are tools that money cannot buy. When I think of these items I think of the individuals that entrusted them to me. Their love of the tool and what they accomplished with it lives in my mind. I hope someday some of my tools, especially my hand-made ones, will sit on a special shelf and generate good thoughts from the future owner. Do you have any “special” tools that are priceless? Have you made any tools that you would not sell but hope to leave to someone who truly appreciates tools? Items like these keep the “faith” of woodworking alive and for future generations.
Enjoy your shop time and tools,
Jerill